Córdoba is in danger of becoming swamped by tourists. Like Florence and Venice during peak hours it is totally overrun.
I was there at Easter and this may be a particularly bad time for street congestion but the narrow alleys of the old town were very busy and it was difficult to walk through them.
The main draw being the Mosque-Cathedral. This brings in many of the city’s visitors and it’s quite incredible inside.
It has unique architecture, originally a mosque in the 8th century built during the Andalusian Islamic occupation then later a Catholic church was built inside the mosque. The forest of red and white horseshoe arches and richly decorated halls are something you can’t see anywhere else in Spain.
Many visitors arrive at the train station. Connected in all directions, there are trains from Malaga in the south, Madrid to the north and Seville to the west. The station is around a 30 minute walk from the old town and mosque, maybe worth getting a taxi. If you walk you can go down the set of parks south of the station, or you can cut through the new town. The parks are more pleasant, but it’s interesting to see the newer parts of town too.
The old town or Jewish quarter are to the north of the Mesquita-Cathedral and arriving in the early afternoon, this was when the narrow streets were at their busiest. My hotel was right next to the mosque and it was a relief to arrive after fighting through so many tourists.
To enter the mosque you can either go between 8.30-9.30 am when it is free, or pay £15 to go inside the building later. The outer courtyard is free to enter.
I would recommend going early, as inside it will be quieter and at 8am the courtyard also was more pleasant with fewer people. There was already a line to go in at 8 but the mosque is so big inside, it can handle many people.
Close to the mosque is the Alcazar and unfortunately I didn’t get to go inside this. Next time for sure, it looks beautiful on photos.
I did walk across the Roman bridge over the river, and at dawn (7.30am) it was very beautiful and not too many people. Just Spanish locals heading into work in the city and a few people exercising.
I spent two days in Cordoba and it was enough to see the main attractions, not enough to explore the city in more detail. Another couple of days would be good I think if you have time .
First thing in the morning the city was at its best, worth getting up early to see it at this quieter time.
I found some places to eat that felt ok as a solo traveller, not just aimed at family’s or couples. Prices were reasonable.
Córdoba’s mix of Roman, Islamic, Jewish, and Christian influences put it high on the list of cities to see in southern Spain. It’s a fascinating place and I guess that’s why there are so many tourists.